Vacuum-Insulated Windows

Many studies show that windows are the biggest energy-losing item in the home. This has been proven by taking infra-red pictures of the home. The bright red squares tell the whole story without wordsa sthis shows where the heat is escaping.

Until about 5 years ago the vast majority of homes were built with double-pane, sealed glass units. Many of the frames were wood and aluminum but vinyl was beginning to make inroads. These windows had an R-value of less than 1.0 – which means that was the resistance to the heat going outside – whereas most walls now are r-19.

Today the standard is triple-pane, low emissivity glass with an argon filling. The argon prevents the convection currents inside the glass, which escalates the heat through the glass in a normal window. The low emissivity coatings (low-e) on the glass reflects the heat back into the home. These still have an r-value of less than R- 5.

U-Value

Rather than deciding the r-value windows are commonly measured in U-value, which is the term used to describe the whole window system’s ability to prevent the loss of heat through the entire window system, the glass, sash and frame. It is usually a small number whereas r-value is a large one and used to describe the individual components like a batt of insulation.

Here is how the system works: A single-pane window glass might as well be an open window as it draws heat to the cold surface and then radiates it outside. As well, a double-pane window has only an R-value of 3 or 4 whereas a typical 2×4 stud wall is 12 to 19.

Vacuum Windows (VIG)

A new system of a vacuum space between the panes is coming to the window industry. Like a thermos the vacuum-insulated glass takes away the convection loss of heat better than a heavy gas which just slows down the process. In this way 2 panes will do a better job than 3 panes of the standard low e and argon window systems. To make up for the lack of pressure between the panes small spacers are added.

Also, by employing VIG with low-e coatings the glass used is thinner. So even adding another pane of thin glass will not make the VIG window that much heavier will make the window’s insulating factor more than double that of the regular triple pane low-e and argon window systems

Insulate an Old House

Many people dream of buying an old house and restoring it to its original glory. A lot of this work can be completed a bit of skill and a lot of elbow grease. Many of the old places have remnants of the bric-and-brac and adornments that can be duplicated to replace destroyed originals. The only other major consideration is the heating system and how efficient is the old place.

Many of the ancient building had only a 4″ air space for insulation while others had an assortments of fillers including dried moss and seaweed. To make the home more energy efficient renovators look to blown-in cellulose and cementitious foam.

Blown-In Insulation: Rather than a batt this insulation is made up of around 85 percent recycled newsprint. In addition there is a mixture of borate and ammonium sulfate which a good fire retardants and their compounds resist rodents, insects, mildew and mold. The product comes in large, compressed bricks which are broken up in a unit containing an agitator and a blower. The blower sends the air-cellulose mixture through long vacuum cleaner-like hoses and the installer directs the nozzle of the hose into pre-drilled holes in the wall. The mixture quickly fills the wall cavities getting into crevices and increasing the R-value considerably.

Cementitious Foam: Foam products have been great insulators for years but the threat of health issues surrounding UFFI (urea formaldehyde foam insulation) deterred people from any foam product. Cementitious foam is a magnesium-based product that comes from seawater. Like UFFI this foam will work its way in and around obstacles but the difference is that it will not shrink over time.

When it comes to dollars and cents cellulose wins that battle. However, foam is not affected by moisture and will not settle as cellulose might after time.

UFFI – Urea Formaldahyde Foam Insulation

When you mention urea formaldehyde foam insulation (UFFI) as an insulating material you might stop the conversation and get some odd stares. Because to most people UFFI is an acronym for “hands off this property.”

It started out in the 1970’s as the perfect insulation for a home. This worked especially well in old buildings where, instead of stuffing fiberglass in the walls, you could fill the cavities with foam that expanded and filled up every crack and cranny. The home was noticeably warmer and drafts were almost eliminated.

In 1980 reports surfaced that the off-gassing of formaldehyde was a serious health risk to homeowners and in 1982 the United States Consumer Protection Agency got UFFI banned. It seemed that people who lived in a mobile home were suffering from nose bleeds, headaches, fatigue and eye irritation. The fear blossomed and then the CPA dealt the industry a death blow. In some instances homes were demolished or, at the very least, had their walls ripped open to get the UFFI out because insurance companies and banks would not renew mortgages of homes with UFFI.

However, formaldehyde is also given off by new carpets, plywood and other glued materials in levels much higher than UFFI. So in the following studies it was never proved that UFFI produced gas higher than an acceptable 0.1 parts-per-million (ppm). In fact houses with new carpets approached the “bad area” of 0.5 ppm but no one was going to outlaw carpets.

In 1983, the U.S. Court of Appeal cut down the CPA ruling deeming that the evidence just wasn’t there. The afflicted homeowners, for the most part, lived in poorly ventilated homes where all forms of off-gassing and domestic chemicals could affect them. Many others were dissatisfied with the product and this was determined to be the fault of poorly-trained installers.

The controversy does not rage as it used to but there are those who condemn the use of UFFI. But it is interesting to note that the countries of Europe, who are incredibly environmentally-minded, use UFFI and have never had a problem.

6 Ways to Get Your “Green” Card

In a recent study of builders in the U.S. it was discovered that 7 out of 10 people who want homes built ask about both energy-efficient homes and using environmentally-friendly materials. That’s gigantic leap from only 5 years ago. As well, there is a marked jump of homeowners who are looking for ways reduce energy while using materials that won’t harm the environment.

Here are the top 5 requests from 2007:

1) Tankless Water Heater: This machine costs 3-4 times as much as a normal water heater but it is easy to install and takes up minimal space. It is an on-demand system which fires up when needed so there is no need to heat up a tank of cold water so it can cut your water heating bill by about 12-20%. That’s pretty good long term savings when the average household spends around 15% of its total energy requirements to heat water. In addition the heater can be used for hydronic floor heating.

2) Natural Landscape: Do you ever go outside the city and see the plants and trees that grow there without need for sprinklers and fertilizing? Well, a new trend in landscaping is to put the “nature” back into natural by ridding the yard of grass and using creative ways to define this space. Some homeowners are planting wild blueberry bushes and saskatoon berry shrubs amongst patios and pathways of natural stone. It just takes imagination and pretty soon you find yourself avoiding the pesticide and fertilizer aisle in the hardware store.

3) Insulation: There is a saying that, “You can never get enough insulation.” One way to find out for yourself is to get a home inspection from a government agency promoting energy savings. Almost all the states have them. They will check your windows, doors and attics for “energy sucks,” places where cold air comes in (Traditional fireplaces are notorious for drawing your costly hot air outside). Also, many will come back on a cold day and, using an infrared scanner, see where the insulation could be improved. This also works for hot areas to save on air conditioning. Even without this test spending about $500 adding insulation in the attic will pay for itself in saved energy in less than 5 years.

4) Programmable Thermostats: The old mercury switch thermostats were fine in their time but with crude oil prices and electrical generating costs going through the roof you need a more efficient way to control this precious commodity called heat. The EPA’s ENERGY STAR program estimates the average household will save $150 per year just by changing to these thermostats. That’s approximately what three (3) would cost.

5) CFL Bulbs: Just by changing to compact fluorescent bulbs, or CFL’s, you are instantly saving electricity because they use about 75 percent less energy than standard incandescent bulbs. Because they last up to 10 times longer you can save about $30 or more in electricity costs over each bulb’s lifetime.

6) Windows: These are the ports of the highest energy loss for the home, especially if you have single-paned windows – which the vast majority do not have anymore. Double and triple-seal windows are the norm but you can never get a great R-value from glass - and they are very expensive. if you live in a cold area you will save in a big way by covering the larger windows with a transparent plastic seal. It will take time to apply them and you can store them on old wrapping paper rolls for use again.

Let’s face it, the price of electricity and fossil fuels will never go down. But by making inexpensive changes here and there you can freeze and even drop the costs. besides, you will be helping cut down on greenhouse gases.

4 Tips For Wood Stoves

As with other household appliances, fireplaces and wood stoves have to be used under safety guidelines and precautions. They should be professionally installed, properly maintained and cleaned on a regular basis. This includes all chimney systems.

1. Where do you need the heat?

Place the stove where you need it. If you just stick it in the basement – if that basement is not being used for living space – most of the heat will just be absorbed into the ceiling and much of it will not transfer up into the areas you want.

2. Pick the right size:

Bigger is not necessarily better because a large, under-fueled firebox will not throw the heat you want. In essence, the unit still uses more fuel for less heat coverage. If you fill it up, a larger load may overheat the area where it is installed. In both cases you use more fuel.

3. Small Load:

Firing up a stove full of fuel can produce stress on a cold firebox and chimney. Use kindling and small wood scraps and refrain from using solvents and liquid fuels to start combustion.

4. Periodic Inspections:

Regular inspections by a certified mason or fire station official is recommended. In fact many homes cannot be sold without first certifying the fireplace or wood stove.