Latest Home Improvement, Renovation & Remodeling Trends

When someone walks past a home he or she will notice the landscaping, the trim and the windows first. These items jump out because they define the property. However, once a visitor approaches the home, itself, the next feature that grabs attention is the entrance door.

Entrance doors have a long and storied history from the solid-oak protection devices to the lacy French doors which allow the sun in and the homeowner to view the property. The main purpose is to provide a block to the passageway between the interior of the home and the elements. Added security against predation is provided by locks and against the weather by weatherproofing around the door.

Doors are usually housed in a jam with two long jams on the side, a lintel on the top and a threshold on the bottom. Other doors slide and pocket doors disappear into the wall. But the most popular doors for entranceways are the ones with the standard movement.

Entrance doors come in many materials with wood being the traditional choice. However, after many years of sun,l snow and rain wood will eventually crack, warp and bow. This is due to the moisture cycle and also the sun’s ultraviolet rays which, over time, break down the wood’s natural lignin.

Entrance doors don’t usually come as the door itself but are pre-hung as part of an entry system. This includes the jam and the trim. The hinges are already on and the door has been positioned so that it just has to be fit in the hole. They can also some with a doorlight, which is glass in the door. These windows can cover the majority of the door space or be a small arc above eyesight just to let in light. In addition, sidelights provide a grandeur to the door. These are narrow panels on each side of the door which are door-height and can also include differing lengths of glass.

Most doors are rarely made of solid wood anymore but steel, fiberglass, aluminum or engineered wood. And most of these products have a filling of CFC-free polyurethane foam insulation for a greater r-value. The fiberglass doors can mimic the look of wood and can be made almost any color. Steel doors usually come primed but others are powder-coated with the color of your choice.

For more information on entrance doors contact Better Door Contractors

Basement walls are the foundations for the home and it’s surprising that, for all its strength, concrete is a very porous material. In fact it acts like sponge and this is in context with the moisture contained in the ground. If the ground is very wet then the basement will have moisture and vice versa.

1) Gutters: The first consideration when dealing with a wet basement is to check the drainage around the home and this begins with the gutter system. Make sure that the water is being diverted away from the home.

2) Drainage: Next, check to see if the natural drainage is away from the home. If not you may have to dig around the home and put in a 4″ drainage pipe.

3) Ventilation: It is important to have an airflow in all parts of the home but especially the basement. Many heat recovery systems include a dehumidifier and this helps keep the basement dry.

4) Concrete Sealer: This is a compound injected into cracks to seal off them off permanently.

Insulation

1) Fiberglass Batt: The cheapest way to finish basement walls is with a 2 X 4 stud frame and fiberglass batt insulation. Some contractors prefer to vapor seal against the cement wall to prevent any moisture from soaking the batt.

2) Rigid Foam: This is glued to the wall and is available with slots form wood strapping. The drywall is then attached to the strapping. Foam is not affected by moisture but mold can get in behind it of the wall is not sealed properly.

3) Spray Foam: The foam is sprayed on between the studs and it expands into all pores and crevices effectively sealing the wall. The r-value is great and this effectively stops any water from entering the basement.

These are good steps to consider before trying to finish off a basement wall for a living space.

In olden days putting in the well was big event. The “water witcher” came around and found the location of the well with a forked stick called a “divining rod.” They not only located underground water but also could estimate its depth and describe the soil layers. As well, it is said they could tell the number of gallons per minute that could be found there.

In modern times a water witcher is still used in many cases but the wells are now drilled to depths upwards of 500 feet. A drill bit - usually tungsten carbide - is attached to a length of connected drill pipe and as the drill rotates the bit the crushed pieces of the rock are flushed upward and out the top of the hole in a slurry of drilling fluid which is pumped down to the drilling action and then back to the surface. This liquid also cools and lubricates the drill bits. As the drill cuts into water bearing rockformations water will flow into the hole.

There are few different methods of drilling a well- compress air, pounding bits - but in all cases the top part of the well is lined with a steel or plastic casing. This casing is usually 1-2″ in diameter smaller than the hole and the space is filled with crushed rock called “grout” to seal the hole from contaminants.

The key to a deep well is the submersible pump. For a shallow well a jet pump, an electric motor attached to a shaft, will suffice. This can be housed in a barn or right in the home. However, these pumps are not powerful enough to suck water from hundreds of feet below the surface. This takes a deep water source.

The submersible pump is usually made of stainless steel and is narrow enough to fit to the bottom of the well. There is a screen to protect the pump from sucking in rock particles. A long conduit of electrical wiring attaches to the pump as well as long line to keep the pump off the bottom.

The cost for a well is a scary enterprise. Most well drillers have a standard base rate and go “by the foot” after that. The problem is you can get 10 a gallons a minute at 50 feet or not get 3.5 gallons a minute until 300 feet. The difference is about $20,000!

So maybe a water witcher might be a good idea before you drill!

The key to convection ovens is what the name implies - convection. Actually there is a natural convection current in any space, even ovens, so that the real action would be “forced convection.” In an ordinary oven there is a natural insulating ayer around the food because it begins at a lower temperature. The fan in the convection oven is housed outside the oven to prevent damage from the heat. Through a duct it moves the air around nullifying the cold and hots spots so that the whole oven is the same temperature.

What does this mean to the cook? Well, the food cooks more quickly and evenly and at a lower temperature because the oven doesn’t have to get really hot to to heat up the cool spots.

Our homes are similar. the furnace or air conditioner kicks in to provide a comfort level but unless the home has a heat recovery process - which brings in fresh air and exhaust stale air - either the heated air will rise or the cooled air will stay around floor level. This is physics.

Try this: Get a step ladder and climb up to the ceiling of your highest room. measure the air temperature there. Now take the temperature at floor level. There is usually a marked difference between the ceiling and floor.

This difference in temperature is part of the reason why energy costs are so high in an older home. The thermostat may be in one part of the room whereas the hot air registers are central. Therefore the furnace works hard to get the thermostat to cut off and then there are still cold spots in the room.

Modern HVAC techniques have provided equalization in the newer homes. Heat pumps and heat recovery ventilators provide air movement which gives a greater comfort in the home.

For older homes with an older heating and air conditioning system there is a way to get comfort without overdriving the system - fans. Slow moving ceiling fans do not use a lot of energy but, carefully placed, can provide a continuous air movement that not only provides comfort but energy savings and improved air quality.

Wood is organic and therefore it will rot. Even cedar and pressure-treated wood will break down over time in the wrong conditions. Why? Because just like humans wood does not like to be wet all the time. It’s okay to be soaked once and while but there has to be a way for the wood to dry. Because organisms go where the penetrating water goes and die when the wood dries. If the wood stays wet then they multiply and begin eating away at the wood.

The first thing when building a deck, fence or shed is to check the drainage area and grade where the deck will be built to make sure it slopes away from the foundation of the home. The supports should be set off the ground with with a deck block or on a cement post. If the wood is sitting at ground level on a cement pad the ground it should have a French drain around it so the water will have some place to go. This should then be drained off the property.

When building a deck the ledger board which is attached to the house should have a flashing over the joint between it and the house to avoid water getting into the joint. The flashing would go up under the siding.

Wood fencing, because of its design, leaves a lot of places where water can sit. Build your with a design that allows the least surface area to hold water. Many deck raining systems cover the balusters with a board to prevent water from seeping in from the top. The cracks and seams are completely covered and if water blows up from underneath gravity helps water get out.

You are never going to stop water from getting in. By its very nature it will be sucked up into any cracks despite gravity. The main idea idea is to have a way for water to get out.

Most of us have seen the dark water stains on a cement basement wall or the puddle on the basement floor and wondered how the water got there. Well, besides being strong and a solid foundation cement is very porous and water can seep through. This is why most new homes are tarred or wrapped with a waterproof membrane to prevent this. However, unless the floor pad has vapor seal underneath water can still up though the seams between the surface and the wall.

Gutters: One of the best ways to prevent a humid basement is to stop the water before it gets against the foundation. This begins at roof level with gutters which can accept the amount of water draining off the roof. A small amount of rain on a large roof can produce dozens of gallons of water in a short time so its best to have a gutter system that can handle this.

Downspout: Another important part of the system is the downspout. As the name implies downspouts take the water from the gutter to ground level. However, if the gutter is overflowing there is a good possibility that there are not enough downspouts to carry this away. Adding one more in a critical spot will enhance the drainage.

Drainage: When the water gets down to ground level it needs to be immediately directed away from the foundation. If the home is on a hill this is easy because the water will run away but if it is not then you have to make a path. Digging a 2′ X 2′ corridor around the foundation and putting in a 4″ perforated pipe will do a lot to take the water away. The downspouts can go directly into this pipe and the exit for this trench should be angled downward slightly to give the water an easy path away. Then the trench should be then filled with 1″ gravel or crushed rock.

This gets the water away from the foundation rather than sitting and allowed to seep. But you have to have good gutters to get the water where you want it before you can direct it away..

When we think of greenhouses many of us imagine a pristine building of glass with endless trays of plants. But your greenhouse doesn’t have to be grand to bear produce and take a bite out of your grocery bill.

Location, Location, Location

Obviously, the greenhouse should be places where it cane get the most sunlight. In our hemisphere the best choice is directly south or on southeast side of your home. Experts say that the morning sunlight is the best because it gets the plant’s food production going and so growth is stronger. If the greenhouse is to be used all year then shoot for the winter sun exposure because the sun is lower in the sky in winter. Also it should be shelters from the wind. Build the greenhouse above the ground so that the water will drain away.

Attached Greenhouses

There are three basic types: lean -to, even span: and window.

1. Lean-To: The lean-to design is when space is limited. It can be built over a doorway but should always be on the wall which gets the most sun. It is somewhat limited because it will not get all the sun because the wall will block some of the daylight.

2. Even Span: This is full-size structure with one wall, usually an end wall, attached to a building. It is better than an lean-to because it has better air circulation, can be expanded and gets more light.

3. Window-Mount: This style is the cheapest and easily accessible. But it is the most limiting. It is basically a box that fits in a window frame and is good for spices, small plants and starter plants.

4. Free-Standing: Like the ever-span this greenhouse is larger but has more light than the attached model.

Building Materials

Glass: The old greenhouses were wood-frames with glass inserts. The frames had to be maintained and the expansion and contraction of the wood had to be monitored. The new ones have metal frames and are covered with fiberglass or a thick plastic sheeting but the mainstay is the aluminum frame with glass panes. These are permanent and are easy to maintain and allow 90% of light to pass through.

Plastic Panels: These are usually double-sheeted so that the energy savings is 30% over glass but the light transmission is 80%. Acrylic doesn’t yellow but polycarbonates tend to cloud up if not UV protected.

Plastic Sheeting: This material is cheap but has to be replaced every few years. However, because it is light the frame does not have to be as strong so the framing material would be cheaper than a glass or fiberglass greenhouse.

For the homeowner one of the best ways to build a greenhouse is to get old windows destined for a landfill and construct your own small one to get a feel for it. The wooden window frames can be easily attached to a wood frame. In this way you can rebuild it the next year when you get more glass. the main thing is that you will have a cheap greenhouse which can be expanded.

Each time you put your clothes in the dryer you are using an immense amount of power. In fact, clothes dryers are the second biggest power pig in your home. An average household uses between $70 and $100 a year in electricity to dry - and shrink - your clothes.

There are many add-on attachments like a heat recovery unit which diverts the hot air back into the basement or laundry room. But this adds unwanted moisture into the home and unless you have a good exchange unit this moisture could cause problems. Also, lint can get through even the smallest screen so there will be lint dust pouring into the home. To save money you might want to look at what dryer you buy.

Here are some tips when buying a dryer:

1. Moisture Sensors: dryers with these will shut off when the clothes are done saving energy and reducing wear on the clothes. You save about 15% of energy.
2. Temperature Sensor: Another 10% savings.
3. Cool Down or “Perma-Press” Cycle: Switches to cold air in the last minutes of the cycle.

Tips for Energy Savings:

1. Place in Heated Space: The dryer will not work as hard.
2. Venting: Do not use flexible pipe as it restricts air flow and lint can pile up in the grooves. Always go with smooth ductwork and go the shortest and straightest way out.
3. Check Air Vent: this should be done monthly to check for blockages and that it shuts tight. Air can get it and cool the home.
4. Clean Lint: Check inside the dryer for lint build up. Also take apart the ductwork if you can and vacuum it out.
5. Full Loads: Small loads are uneconomical.
6. Similar Loads: Sort clothes for drying by similar material because they dry at the same rate.
7. Two Loads: The dryer is already warmed up after 1 load so the second one costs you less.
8. Cool Down: Residual heat in the dryer for continue drying for a few minutes. In effect this is “free heat.”

Check the Energy Factor before making any dryer purchase.

One of the worst materials in history for garage doors (or almost anything for that matter) is wood fiber. When it first comes out it looks good but after years of use and weathering moisture builds up and the panels begin to swell and sag. Besides, they are heavy and are hard on garage openers. Thankfully, nobody makes them like that anymore.

Types:

• Panel Doors: This is the odds-on favorite with garage door installers because they are safe and easy to operate. In addition, the car can be right in front of the door and you don’t have to worry about the front getting hit like with a swing-up door. The most popular material is vinyl because it it light and has a dent r-value whereas steel, fiberglass and aluminum doors have to be insulated. These doors use torsion springs - a shaft and drum assembly - which distribute the weight of the door more evenly. There is also no fear of breaking and flying off like an extension spring.
• Swing Up Doors: These are a solid door and use and extension spring which is an easy-to-install mechanism. When opening the whole door tilts and swings up.

Materials

• Steel: These doors are extremely strong and won’t warp, break or crack. They also have wood-grain patterns rivaling the look of wood without the cost of time and money in maintenance. The finish is made of hot-dipped, galvanizing with either a vinyl cladding or a polyester coat so they will not rust. Like aluminum, if bent they are difficult to repair.
• Aluminum: Tilt-up doors are usually made from aluminum because they are very light. however, even though they will not rust, aluminum is easily dented and needs insulation.
• Fiberglass: Another light-weight material, aluminum resists corrosion but can break and it will yellow in time.
• Vinyl: Like in window construction vinyl is making big inroads into garage doors. it is light, dent resistant and comes in a wide variety of colors. The insulation value is good, as well. However, for wide doors some products have sagged from warping. Vinyl is great but do some checking before putting on a wide garage door.

One of the best storage areas in you home is the garage, whether a 1-bay or multiple bay area. If you have a home that is 50 years old or newer there is a good chance that the garage area includes around 4-5 extra feet beyond the length of the car with which to work.

A garage storage is for all the tools and recreational things that you don’t want tracked into the home or that off-gas, like camping equipment - although you should always store any fuel in an outdoor shed. This includes sports equipment, tents and power tools.

One of the easiest and cheapest garage systems for the sides is a 2′ X 4′ framing studs with strapping (1″ X 3″ X 8′) for the decking. The studs are fastened to the wall over the inner wall studs for support (32″ apart) and the cross spars brought out just enough to let you open the car door. This can be as shallow as 12.” For an 8′ length you can put 4 shelves at 2′ apart or 5 at 19″ apart. For the area in front of you car you can build a bench or go to a second-hand building supply and get used kitchen cabinets.

The hi-end garage is becoming very popular with those who see this as an upscale “showroom.” Tool cabinets are mechanic-quality and the benches have stainless-steel tops complete with air-stations run from a large compressor for the air-tools. Storage cabinets can match the bench and make the garage into a beautiful area. Flooring in the garage can be indoor-outdoor carpet with NASCAR emblems or small, aggregate stones in a shiny acrylic base. If your garage is high enough you can get a car stacking system to put 1 cars in one bay

However, for the casual do-it-yourselfer metal shelving is inexpensive enough to run around the perimeter of you garage leaving room for the pegboard for your tools.